The Changing Landsape of Navarra
It was mid morning, the strong sunlight was tempered by wispy cloud as the birding party strolled through the Laguna de Pitillas (the wetlands of Navarra) and up to the observation post overlooking the valley. As one visitor commented, not a single man-made sound disturbed the tranquility, only the water birds in the distance and a solitary Crested Lark breaking the silence.
Telescopes were sited at the observation post and they were needed to pick out the numerous water birds such as the Purple Heron, Great White Egrit and the Great Bittern. Many others inhabit the vast valley, the Iberian Yellow Wagtail, Black Stork. Purple Swamp-hen to name just a few. A Red-backed Shrike and a Green Sandpiper were logged and a Crested Lark was heard but not seen.
After a pleasant lunch, and then on to the Nature Park of Bardenas Reales, an amazing lunar-like steppe area with mesa-shaped plains and hidden ravines. Habitats vary from steppes, Mediterranean woods, spectacular soil walls and gorges created by wind and water erosion and a few wetland areas. It is populated by raptors such as the Griffon Vulture, Egyptian Vulture and Montagu's Harrier. One notable sighting, but only by powerful binoculars, was of a Golden Eagle, perched on top of a pyramid-shaped hill, which was buzzed constantly by a dozen or so Red-billed Choughs. A trained eye and plenty of patience was needed to spot some of the other local species - the Hoopoe and a varied selection of Larks including Calandra Short-toed and Thekla.
It was dusk when we left the Bardenas and when the sun disappeared over the mountains and the temperature dipped, the valley took on an almost surreal, forebidding appearance.
One of the surprising features of Navarra is the complete change of scenery in a comparative short distance. No more so when on the following day we visited the Irati Forest, one of the most famous wooded areas in Europe, located in the Pyrenees between two valleys with beech and fir forests covering extensive areas. Raptors abound with the Griffon Vulture dominating the high cliffs, but the Goshawk and Golden Eagle are among 25 or so common species listed.
A short drive and the scenery changed yet again. The Lumbier Canyon is over a mile long and was gouged out by the Irati River which flows along the bottom. A disused rail track accesses the valley, gradually following the river down the ravine. A few stops on the way down to set up tripods for telescopes and cameras to record the busy scenes across the gorge with mainly Griffon and Egyptian Vultures and Choughs settling in their night quarters as dusk approached.
One of Navarra's Birding Information Points is sited in the village of Lumbier which made for an interesting and informative break.
The final day of a rather hectic schedule took us to the Lindux mountain pass. Situated on the Western edge of the Pyrenees it is on the Western European bird migration route where thousands of birds pass avoiding the higher mountains and the unwelcome Bay of Biscay. A short climb to a vantage point gave spectacular views through the pass with the lower slopes of the French Pyrenees in the distance. Locations such as this were heavily defended during the Spanish Civil War, reminders of which can occasionally be seen.
Although late September is considered an ideal time to view migratory birds, very few made an appearance no doubt due to the higher temperatures, just another issue blamed on global warming. Sightings were confined to just a few species notably a Booted Eagle which performed a few 'turns' and a solitary Honey Buzzard.
A leisurely stroll through the Bertiz Nature Park provided a fitting climax to a short but interesting trip. The Park covers over 2000 hectares of Atlantic mixed woods mainly of beech and pedunculate oak and is home to Red and Black Kites, Black and Lesser Spotted Woodpeckers, Goshawks and many others too numerous to mention.
Over the past 15 years the Government of Navarra has made great strides in wild life conservation and encourages visits of birders and nature lovers in general. The roads are good, the sites described are easily accessible and the numerous visitor centres have specialist guides in attendance.
Part of the rice fields of Navarra
The old town of Pamplona
The bottom of the Lumbier Canyon
Birders from France, Germany as well as the UK patiently await the migratory flocks coming from France, over the Pyrenees visible in the distance
Above left: Birders focus on the soaring Griffon Vultures high above the rocks
Above: Bird's eye view of the gorge
Left: Dusk over the wetlands
Below: Looking over the Pyrenees towards France
The inhospitable terrain of the Bardenas Reales where a lonely shepherd keeps a large flock of sheep under control
For more information on the Navarra region of Spain please see the official website
Navarra website (in English)
Navarra website (en español)